Northern Indiana bishop walks 660-mile trail marking Potawatomi’s forced march

Northern Indiana Bishop Doug Sparks begins his pilgrimage on March 20, 2022 at the Chief Menominee Memorial near Plymouth, Indiana. Photo: Diocese of Northern Indiana

[Episcopal News Service] For some clergy, a sabbatical is a time of rest, perhaps focused on an academic project or a retreat. Not so for Bishop Doug Sparks of Northern Indiana, who is spending his sabbatical walking the 660-mile Potawatomi Trail of Death from Indiana to Kansas.

The trail follows the route taken by a group of Potawatomi—an Upper Midwest Native American tribe—in 1838 from their homeland in north-central Indiana to reservations in eastern Kansas. Historical accounts compiled by the Potawatomi describe a grueling 61-day journey through heat and drought that killed at least 40 of the 859 Potawatomi.

Sparks decided to walk the trail — now signposted in many places by roadside signs — as a “pilgrimage of lament and remembrance” after prayer and consultation with indigenous leaders. It has been previously traveled by caravans in cars and walked in 2006 by religion professor Keith Drury. Sparks started walking on March 20 and is currently in central Illinois about halfway through the walk.

The Potawatomi Path of Death. Map courtesy of Potawatomi Trail of Death Association.

Sparks was scheduled to take a 3-month sabbatical in mid-2020, but postponed it to continue guiding the diocese through the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. In November 2020, he saw one of the signs while driving near Plymouth, Indiana; having never heard of the Potawatomi Trail of Death, he looked it up later. The sign marked the site of the village from which the 859th Potawatomi and their leader, Menominee, were expelled.

Their expulsion was one of several forced marches that took place in the 1830s under President Andrew Jackson and the Indian Removal Act, which was passed to remove Native Americans from lands east of the Mississippi who wanted to develop white settlers in exchange for land west. from the Mississippi. Some tribes moved west under the pressure of negotiations with the federal government, but others refused — the most famous being the Cherokee and other southeastern tribes who were forced to walk the 1,000-mile Trail of Tears, where 4,000 died.

Required by a series of treaties to leave his village and move west, Menominee – who combined native spiritual practices with Roman Catholicism – refused. State militiamen herded Menominee and his people—tucked him into a prison truck—and forced them to march toward eastern Kansas. A Catholic priest accompanying the Potawatomi documented horrific conditions of cruelty, disease and death, dying himself shortly after the group reached Kansas.

While his circumstances are obviously very different, Sparks’ walk was already exhausting. He spoke to Episcopal News Service by phone as he walked along a highway between Decatur and Springfield, Illinois, against the background of truck noise and the scorching wind that burned his face. Between the wind, rain, sleet and snow, the weather was the biggest challenge, he said.

This isn’t Sparks’ first long hike, though. In 2019 he walked part of the Camino de Santiago in Spain and he has been a runner for most of his life, running about two and a half miles most days during the pandemic.

Sparks crosses a river along the Camino de Santiago. Photo: Michelle Walker

Since they were already prepared physically, “being prepared spiritually was more challenging,” Sparks told ENS. “I spend most of my day alone praying and singing and thinking about the problems ahead.”

Averaging about 20 miles a day, Sparks planned to camp much of the trip, but with such fierce weather, he stayed in Episcopal churches and hosts’ homes.

“It’s such an amazing experience to be welcomed by so many people as a stranger and a pilgrim,” Sparks said.

He expects to reach Osawatomie, Kansas, in the first week of May, although the stretch of trail still to be covered is so overwhelming that he must focus solely on today’s hike, he said. He has scheduled a meeting with the president of the Potawatomi Trail of Death Association in Springfield and has been in touch with cultural leaders in Oklahoma’s Citizen Potawatomi Nation to learn more about the tribe and share it with his diocese.

– Egan Millard is an assistant editor and reporter for Episcopal News Service. He can be reached at emillard@episcopalchurch.org.

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